Quality control (QC) is essential in garment manufacturing, especially when handling bulk production orders. With the high volume of orders in this industry, particularly when dealing with bulk production, ensuring consistent product quality can be a challenge. Quality defects, if left undetected, can lead to costly product recalls, loss of customer trust, and brand reputation damage.
While a manufacturer might wish to inspect every item to ensure no defects, doing so is often impractical for several reasons. First, the time and labor required to examine every piece of a large batch is immense and can lead to delays in production timelines. Second, inspecting every garment introduces higher labor costs, which may drive up the overall production cost. Moreover, garment defects are typically not evenly distributed across a batch, so inspecting every item doesn’t always guarantee the identification of issues, especially when it comes to cosmetic flaws that don’t necessarily affect the functionality of the garment.
That’s where AQL standards come into play.
Understanding AQL in Garment Production
AQL, or Acceptable Quality Level, is a widely accepted industry standard used in quality control processes, particularly for bulk manufacturing. It sets a clear threshold for the number of defects permitted in a sample batch— whether a production run meets quality standards or needs to be re-evaluated. The goal of AQL is to balance the need for effective quality control with the realities of large-scale manufacturing, ensuring that both manufacturers and customers are satisfied with the product quality.
At its core, AQL is a measurement used to determine the threshold of defect tolerance for a given batch of garments. It represents the maximum number of defects allowed in a sample that will still result in a “pass” grade for the overall batch. AQL provides a practical framework that allows manufacturers to inspect a sample of garments and infer the quality of the entire batch without needing to inspect each individual item.
What is AQL? How Does it Apply to Garment Manufacturing?
AQL is not a fixed percentage; it varies depending on the type of defect being measured. It’s an industry-standard method for controlling the quality of large batches without inspecting every item. Garment manufacturers typically classify defects into three categories: minor defects, major defects, and critical defects. Each category comes with a specific tolerance level determined by the AQL.
For example, in garment production:
- Minor defects might include small imperfections like loose threads or slight color variations that don’t affect the garment’s overall functionality or wearability.
- Major defects may include more significant issues like broken zippers or misaligned seams, which affect the garment’s usability but don’t pose safety risks.
- Critical defects are the most severe and could render the garment unsafe, such as faulty stitching that might cause a garment to fall apart during use or the presence of hazardous materials.
By using AQL, manufacturers can determine how many defective items in a sample are acceptable before the entire batch is deemed unfit for sale. The AQL ensures that the process is both efficient and effective, minimizing production costs while meeting quality standards. However, it’s important to note that while AQL helps reduce the risk of excessive defects, no sampling plan can fully guarantee defect-free batches.
AQL Tolerances for Minor, Major, and Critical Defects
AQL values are not direct percentages of allowable defects but statistical indexes used to determine acceptance or rejection numbers based on sample size. Here are the commonly used levels in garment manufacturing:
- Minor Defects (AQL Level 4.0): Cosmetic issues that don’t affect performance, such as loose threads or fabric inconsistencies. The acceptable number of minor defects is determined by cross-referencing the sample size with AQL 4.0 on standard inspection tables.
- Major Defects (AQL Level 2.5): Issues that affect usability, like broken zippers or uneven seams. For AQL 2.5, a specific number of allowable defects per sample size is defined by AQL charts.
- Critical Defects (AQL Level 0.0): These pose safety hazards or make garments unusable. There is zero tolerance for critical defects.
How Deepwear Implements AQL Standards
At Deepwear, we leverage AQL standards to ensure the quality of garments meets our clients expectations without the need for exhaustive inspections of every piece. By using an efficient and systematic approach, we maintain the delicate balance between high-quality products and cost-effective production. Here’s how we implement the AQL process to deliver reliable, defect-free garments to our clients:
- Pre-Order Alignment: Before placing a bulk order, AQL IS SET UP WITH THE SUPPLIER and clearly addressed within a THREE-PARTY ORDER CONTRACT that includes Deepwear, the supplier, and the client. This ensures everyone is aligned on quality thresholds from the start.
- Sample Verification Against the Tech Pack: We prepare a SAMPLE AGAINST THE TECH PACK to ensure that materials, construction, sizing, and finishing match the client’s expectations before bulk production begins.
- Production Phases (Post-Order Confirmation): Once the bulk order is confirmed but BEFORE MASS PRODUCTION BEGINS, we move through the following key phases to ensure quality and alignment:
- Pre-Production Sample Review: A pre-production sample is created to represent the final garment. The client must join a call with our team (or physically present, if possible) to review and approve this sample before we proceed.
- Final Bulk Specification Review: Before starting mass production, the final bulk specifications must be reviewed and approved. The client can choose to be on the ground with us to review the products in person, or, if that’s not possible, we conduct a detailed final check via video call to ensure everything is aligned before production begins.
- Quality Control Inspection: During production, we conduct a thorough quality control (QC) inspection. To ensure transparency and accountability, we invite the client to join via video during QC (or be physically present, if they want) allowing real-time review and feedback.
Step 2: AQL Inspection Process
The Client has two options for conducting the AQL inspection of the goods:
1.Third-Party Inspection Agency:
The Client may choose to engage a third-party inspection agency of their preference for the AQL inspection. Should you require recommendations, we are happy to suggest reputable agencies such as:
- SGS
- Bureau Veritas
- Intertek
We will be pleased to assist in coordinating the inspection with the selected agency to ensure a smooth process.
2. In-House Team Coordination:
Alternatively, the Client may prefer to coordinate the inspection directly with our in-house quality control team. We are committed to ensuring the inspection aligns with the agreed AQL standards and will provide full support throughout the process.
Note: Please be advised that any additional costs incurred for the inspection, whether through a third-party agency or related to coordination with our in-house team, will be the responsibility of the Client.
In either case, we are here to facilitate a seamless inspection process and provide the necessary documentation and support. Kindly let us know your preferred option so we can proceed accordingly.
Step 3: Defining Defect Categories (Minor, Major, Critical)
We categorize defects into three levels—minor, major, and critical—to gauge the severity of each issue:
- Minor Defects: These do not affect the garment’s usability or function but may include small issues like loose threads or slight inconsistencies in color or stitching. In our hoodie example, a small misalignment in the rubber print could fall into this category.
- Major Defects: These impact the garment’s overall usability but don’t pose safety risks. For instance, if a zipper on a hoodie doesn’t function correctly, that would be a major defect.
- Critical Defects: These are the most serious, posing safety risks or rendering the garment completely unusable. For example, if a hoodie’s fabric had hazardous chemical residues or the print was applied in a way that could lead to skin irritation, that would be a critical defect.
Step 4: AQL Tolerance Application
Once the defects are identified, we apply AQL tolerances to determine whether the batch passes or fails:
● Minor Defects: AQL tolerance of 4.0%—up to 4 minor defects in a batch of 100 items are acceptable.
● Major Defects: AQL tolerance of 2.5%—no more than 2-3 major defects in a batch of 100 items are allowed.
● Critical Defects: AQL tolerance of 0%—no critical defects are acceptable.
If a batch has defects exceeding the allowed tolerances, we’ll work with the manufacturer to ensure corrections are made. To maintain efficiency, we handle quality control in-house whenever possible, as it allows us to ensure faster resolutions and greater oversight. However, should a client require third-party verification, we can also collaborate with independent quality inspection companies to meet their specific needs.
Addressing Defects and Feedback Loops
Identifying and addressing defects is only part of the quality control process. Equally important is the feedback loop between the quality control team and the factory. This communication ensures that any issues found during inspections are corrected and that the final product meets the agreed-upon standards. By effectively documenting, communicating, and resolving defects, we help factories make improvements and ensure that our clients receive only the highest quality products. Here’s how:
1. What Happens When Defects Are Found
When defects are discovered, we document them in detail, including the type of defect, the affected area, and the severity. We then communicate this information to the factory, where they can take corrective actions. For example, if a hoodie’s print was misaligned or the stitching on the pockets was weak, we’d send this feedback to the factory for review.
To manage these situations effectively and ensure accountability, we follow a clear set of steps:
- Our quality control team documents and explains all issues in detail.
- We notify the client and advise on the best course of action.
- We initiate direct communication with the factory and, if needed, set up a three-way meeting between Deepwear, the client, and the supplier to ensure the brand’s concerns are clearly heard.
- We advocate for our clients’ interests, ensuring the factory takes responsibility where appropriate.
- Contracts signed before production outline expectations and serve as a basis for accountability if issues arise.
While we cannot eliminate every risk in production, our goal is to minimize it through structured processes, clear communication, and consistent advocacy for our clients’ needs.
2. How Factories Respond
Upon receiving feedback, the factory will review the defects and take corrective actions. In the case of misaligned prints or poorly sewn pockets, the factory would replace the defective garments or rework them to meet the agreed-upon standards.
In cases of dispute or repeated quality issues, we also refer back to the signed contracts, which stipulate the factory’s obligations regarding defect resolution and delivery deadlines. These agreements strengthen our position when advocating for clients and ensure that accountability is not left to verbal assurances alone.
3. How Deepwear Ensures Quality Before Final Shipment
After any necessary corrective actions are completed, we initiate a final round of inspections to verify that the garments now meet the agreed-upon quality standards. To streamline this process—especially when factories are located in remote areas or outside the cities where our offices are based—we often request detailed visual proof from the factory, including photos and videos of the amendments made.
While we implement AQL checks at multiple stages throughout production, the final decision on whether an in-person inspection is required before shipment rests with the client. Should they request it, we are prepared to conduct a physical factory visit to ensure complete confidence in the shipment’s quality. Only once all standards are met do we authorize the goods for dispatch, ensuring clients receive products that are up to spec and defect-free.
Conclusion
AQL standards guide our approach to quality control, ensuring that we deliver reliable, high-quality garments while maintaining cost efficiency. Through a four-step process—pre-production quality control, sample selection, defect categorization, and AQL tolerance application—we effectively monitor and address defects at various stages of production. Importantly, we also emphasize the importance of feedback loops with our manufacturing partners, ensuring that any issues are corrected before the final shipment.
By leveraging AQL standards and continuously refining our quality control processes, we can provide garments that meet our clients’ expectations without sacrificing efficiency. This approach helps minimize costly errors and protects brand reputation, all while maintaining the integrity of the production timeline. Ready to ensure your garments meet the highest quality standards without the hassle of exhaustive inspections?
Contact us today to learn how our quality control processes can enhance your production and protect your brand reputation. Let’s create high-quality garments that your customers will love!