Material sourcing has always been a balance of performance, storytelling, and supply chain pragmatism. Leather, with its durability, sensorial richness, and long-standing cultural weight, remains a staple across industries—from fashion and footwear to automotive interiors and luxury accessories.
But the conversation is shifting. Brands are being asked to account not just for product quality, but for lifecycle impacts, recyclability, and compliance with rapidly evolving environmental standards. These questions are pushing the material world to innovate without abandoning what already works.
Nowhere is this tension more visible than in recent developments from Germany’s leading research institutions. In 2021, the Freiberg Institute (FILK)—known for its technical rigor in testing leather and synthetic materials—released a study comparing traditional leather to nine emerging alternatives. That same institute is now working with the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) on developing a new generation of bio-based synthetic leather. The goal: to create scalable, recyclable alternatives that reflect the realities of a changing industry.
This is not a rejection of leather, but a widening of the sourcing conversation. What’s emerging is a new middle ground and a serious, science-driven investment in scalable, sustainable alternatives that meet new performance and end-of-life expectations. The industry is expanding its definition of what’s possible.
Leather: A Material Like No Other
In 2021, FILK published a comparative study examining nine leather alternatives. Their conclusion was direct: leather, as a material, remains technically superior in durability, flexibility, and vapor permeability. They emphasized that no tested material could fully replicate the complex structure and properties of leather. For them, the term “leather” carries specific technical and historical weight—and using it loosely risks misleading consumers.
To bring clarity, FILK grouped the alternatives into three broad categories:
- Materials with a natural base, such as mushroom or kombucha leather, which avoid plastics entirely or use them sparingly.
- Materials that are plastic-dominant, but include natural elements like apple residue, cactus fiber, or pineapple leaves. These include well-known brands like Desserto, Vegea, and Piñatex.
- Fully synthetic options, often referred to as artificial leather, which are generally petroleum-based and engineered to mimic leather’s visual and tactile characteristics.
FILK’s position was not dismissive of innovation. Rather, the report advocated for transparency and labeling integrity, urging that materials not be marketed as leather if they do not match its key technical attributes. At its core, the study reflected a concern that consumers be informed—not confused—about what they are buying.
However, the study’s published summary focuses squarely on technical performance—durability, water vapor permeability, and tensile strength—rather than on environmental metrics such as carbon footprint, chemical safety, or end-of-life recyclability. While these mechanical benchmarks are critical, they represent only one dimension of how materials are now being evaluated. For many brands today, sustainability is not a secondary concern but a parallel priority.
The Market Has Moved—and So Has the Research
Since FILK’s 2021 study, the landscape has continued to evolve—both in terms of market demand and material innovation. In a notable development, FILK is now working with the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) on a project to develop a new type of synthetic leather made entirely from polybutylene succinate (PBS).
PBS is known for being biodegradable and thermoplastically processable, but it is important to note that the vast majority of PBS currently used in industry is still produced from fossil-based feedstocks. What sets this collaboration apart is that the PBS being used here is derived from renewable, biogenic sources. This shift in feedstock significantly reduces the material’s carbon footprint and makes it more compatible with long-term sustainability goals.
Equally significant is how the material is applied. Traditional synthetic leathers are usually composite structures, combining a plastic coating (often polyurethane or PVC) with a textile base made from materials like polyester or polyamide. These multi-material layers are challenging to recycle and often not biodegradable.
In this project, both the coating and the textile substrate are made from the same polymer—PBS. This material purity makes mechanical recycling far more feasible and aligns with the principles of circular design. It also eliminates the complications that arise from trying to separate and process dissimilar components.
The PBS-based material is also compatible with conventional production processes like extrusion and fiber spinning, making it a realistic option for industrial-scale production. And because it uses a bio-based input rather than a fossil-derived one, it has the potential to support brands seeking more climate-aligned sourcing.
This research direction is also timely. It reflects the growing pressure across the EU and global markets to comply with new policy frameworks like the Sustainable Products Initiative (SPI), which emphasizes recyclability, resource efficiency, and transparent end-of-life planning.
For sourcing and product development teams, these issues are becoming increasingly non-negotiable. While materials like PBS-based synthetic leather may not fully replace animal leather in every application, they are becoming viable options, especially for companies prioritizing innovation, regulatory compliance, and credible sustainability claims.
What This Means for Brands and Makers
Deepwear has already covered leather extensively—from sourcing and exotic leathers to the environmental impacts of leather processing. It’s important to remember that leather is essentially a byproduct of the meat industry; the skins need to go somewhere. Using this waste resource responsibly, while improving the sustainability and safety of tanning processes for workers and ecosystems, remains a critical focus.
Leather continues to outperform plastic-based synthetic alternatives in durability and environmental terms. Plastic “leather” often involves complex processing that relies heavily on fossil fuels and results in materials that lack resilience and biodegradability.
At the same time, plant-based alternatives such as cactus-derived textiles, mushroom-based leathers, and emerging PBS-based synthetics offer exciting possibilities. These bio-based materials aim to reduce environmental impact and improve circularity, even though many are still developing in terms of durability and scale.
The evolving market demands a more nuanced approach. Deepwear supports brands navigating this landscape with a broad toolkit that includes:
- Expertise in sourcing responsibly tanned and ethically produced leather, including exotic varieties.
- Guidance on incorporating innovative bio-based materials like cactus leather, mycelium composites, and PBS-based synthetics.
- Clear-eyed perspective on the benefits and limitations of both traditional and alternative materials.
- Commitment to transparency and ongoing research around environmental impact and circular design.
- Tailored solutions balancing performance, sustainability, and brand identity.
- Support for brands aiming to meet regulatory and consumer expectations without compromising on quality.
Rather than framing the choice as leather versus alternatives, Deepwear helps brands stay informed and flexible—embracing tradition and innovation as complementary strategies for a more sustainable future.
Making Smarter Choices, Not Just New Ones
There is no one-size-fits-all answer to sourcing in 2025. Leather remains a valuable material, especially when it’s ethically sourced and responsibly processed. At the same time, bio-based synthetics are gaining ground—improving in performance and relevance as sustainability expectations grow.
The real question isn’t which material is “better,” but how sourcing strategies can evolve to meet new technical, regulatory, and environmental demands without compromising on quality or brand identity.
Deepwear works with brands to move beyond binary thinking. We help:
- Weigh the trade-offs between performance, circularity, and scalability
- Source confidently, from vegetable-tanned hides to emerging plant-based and biodegradable textiles
- Understand how materials behave across supply chains and end-use scenarios
- Stay ahead of compliance, sustainability claims, and market shifts
Whether you’re refining existing collections or exploring entirely new ones, we offer the clarity and support to make confident, future-forward sourcing decisions.
Looking for guidance on your next material move? Let’s talk.